Right so the last day is a short one, Merredin into Fremantle, only 280 kms so we are there by midday. Wee bit of rain coming over the Darling Range and down into Perth but not for too long.
No need to comment on this ride, just a road, a busy one at that.
Mucus has not been to Fremantle before so after checking in at the esplanade Hotel ( Mucus goes “ Now this is more my style!!!!” we’re off up the Cappucino Strip to check things out, great city to swan around in.
Mark gets chatting to this young lady doing cancer fund raising while I am speaking to a fellow Kiwi working over here, standing outside the Sail and Anchor pub. They are trying to get this young ladies phone number but with not much success. Given their state of sobriety, not surprised. Anyway turns out this kiwi is from Oxford, practically Mucus neighbour.
These lads tell us to try the Imperial IPA from the Sail and Anchor, top drop they say. Brad and Evie had taken Marie and I to this place for lunch a year or so back, I suggested to Mucus it was a top spot. This is where it gets interesting, bearing in mind Mucus is not a big drinker so fair to say his “capacity” may not be where it could be if he had had more training.
I have to tell this story, it gets interesting so bear with...........................So we pop in and set ourselves up with an Imperial IPA each, its 8.5 % and a very nice drop.
After the one beer I suggest we move on since Fremantle is a cool spot and we should look at some more buildings. We find an ATM about 20 meters away so Mucus is getting out some more cash. No sooner is this done than he’s dragging me back to the sail and Anchor, sod the touristie look round, he is suggesting another Imperial IPA as they were quite nice.
One for himself but I am trying some other red boutique drop, (4.5 percent) but Mucus is on a roll now and lines up Number three.
At number 4, I succumb and have another, we order a meal and yep, Mucus is lining up number five.
About this time my memory is hazy as to how many others were consumed prior to leaving this establishment.
I forgot to mention the first one was at about 3.00pm
Needless to say, there was total gibberish coming out of Mucus mouth by this time and talk of motorcycle adventures in far off lands now that the intrepid adventurers had conquered the mighty Nullabor, I know you can picture the conversation and the animation with the arms going everywhere if you know the man.
The meal by the way was outstanding, the title pic today is the blackboard on the restaurant bench top, you get the picture.......Sail and Anchor, Fremantle.
Moving along now to the morning after, our rooms were about 100 meters apart in this massive hotel so we agree to meet in the foyer at 0800 to head back up the street for breakfast, Mucus volunteers some of the activities of the night before, after returning to his room, in response to my question how was his head?
He confirms his head is not a hundy, surprise surprise I say to him. he asks about mine expecting to be the same but I, of course, am a picture of health. He then tells me about a dream where he was walking around in circles and couldn’t find his way out of his room. I ask to confirm if this was a dream or it happened, “ No No No it happened he said, he got out of bed to go for a pee, could not work out how to get from the bed to the bathroom and was frustrated he could not find the bathroom door, knocked over the lounge chair in the process, eventually found a light and worked out how to get to the bathroom. When he awoke ina slightly better state at daylight ( I use that term slightly in the loosest possible fashion) the lounge chair was still upturned on the floor and it all came flooding back. Was hoovering down copious amounts of water at breakfast after having sculled the “pay for” bottles of water in the room.
Being both in the Insurance industry, I fairly informed him up front that his full and frank disclosures of the carnage and confusion in his motel room would make it to the blog site, and he laughed accepting his fate like the pathetic untrained beer drinker that he is.
Anyway, enough of Mucus first visit to Fremantle and his affection for Imperial IPA, we have some Statistics to post on the trip, you may or may not find interesting. Let me commence:
1. Highlights.
Dean and Carlas green curry in Sydney, the Snowy mountain rides, The Adelaide Hills, The Nullarbor and the Imperial IPA (Mucus told me to add that one) A special highlight was all the awesome people we met, most of whom approached us to chat about what we were doing, from Grey Nomads towing caravans, to old bikers still out there riding well into their 70’s and wanting to reminise, to Harley riders asking if we were really going to ride across the Nullarbor to other riders who had been meaning to but never got around to it, to just plain friendly people stopping for a chat. We met some great people and that’s what is special about these sorts of trips, the people you meet.
2. Favourite rides:
The Adelaide Hills take first place, the Nullarbor second place as an adventure in itself with NSW’s Alpine way and Vic’s Great Alpine road close in behind that.
3. Quirkiest town giving us the most laughs.
Norseman, WA, go there and stay at the railway Motel.
4. Most hideous ride we did not enjoy.
The Great Ocean road wins hands down, mainly because of the number of Chinese tourists in rental cars ruining everyone’s GOR experience.
5. The Biggest danger we experienced on Australian Roads.
Not kangaroos, not Emu’s, not Camels, not kiwi drivers, the biggest threat to the road toll here is Chinese drivers in rental cars. This sentiment was repeated to us by numerous people we spoke to including two Police Officers who told us it was a huge problem in Aussie, I could write an entire blog on my thoughts on how to minimize this risk and could set some aspiring Road Policing Superintendent up with enough brownie points to sit for parliament. Contact me if you read this that Road Policing Superintendent.
6. Prize for biggest Fkwit driver in Australia.
Male, Chinese, mid 20’s, short dark hair, driving a white Hyundai rental on the GOR, female passenger, eyes the size of golf balls after hearing my advice to him as I overtook.
7. Favourite eating house for breakfast.
“Succulent Foods”, Main Street, Kellerberrin, WA, clean and tidy, awesome food, great service, awesome presentation, wins hands down, best cafe in 5900 kms, go there for breakfast and get a roll for play lunch to take away, the counter food looked awesome as well.
8. Favourite eating house for lunch:
The Inglewood Inn, Bannockburn, Adelaide Hills, very slutty and up market, a must stop for lunch when driving or riding the Adelaide Hills.
9. Best accommodation provider.
Bay 10 accommodation, Port Lincoln. Hands down winner, no question.
10. Liquid statistics.
694 litres of fuel, 96 flat whites, double shot. 30 litres of Hahn super dry, unknown quantity of Imperial IPA,
11. Longest distance between traffic lights ( My Favourite this one)
It was 2591 kilometers between the last traffic light at Whyalla, (which is 79 kms down the Lincoln Highway from Port Augusta) until we hit another traffic light as we approached Perth City. There are not many readily accessible motorcycle rides where the keen motorcyclist can travel for such a distance without seeing a bloody set of lights. Certainly not in NZ. Outstanding.
12. Cultural differences
Over here Harley owners wave, Aussies are waaaay more polite drivers than kiwis, out of 96 flat whites only 4 were bad ones, that is a much better statistics than back home in terms of how many bad ones you would get. Chicken parmigiana is a popular dish over here and we heard it ordered heaps, don’t go there New Zealand, it is hiduooooous. Having said that Mucus consumed Barrimundi for 14 of the 16 evening meals and I was close to that with the beef schnitzel and vegetable. Creatures of habit.! No comments on these eating habits are required, this is an FYI only.
OK, here endith the epistle, you will be getting bored with me. To summarize, this was an epic adventure even though it was all on Tarmac. We look at it as two rides, Sydney to Adelaide and then the Nullarbor is another trip with its own special features. This ride and route is highly recommended, West of Norseman we were approached by numerous locals asking if we had ridden the Nullarbor and asking questions about it, looking for tips, all stating they had always meant to ride it but never gotten around to it. Basically if your bike has a range of 200-220 kms on a tank of gas it can be done without carrying fuel.
To put things into perspective, Fairbanks to Prudeau Bay in Alaska is 800 kms one way, therefore 1600 kms return to Fairbanks. This is another epic adventure on the to do list, knobblies required as its gravel. Even though the Nullarbor is tarseal and has coffee stops and fuel every 180 kms, it is 500 kms longer than Fairbanks to Prudeau Bay and back, and that is only doing the Nullarbor in one direction. This makes it an epic adventure, right on kiwis and aussies doorstep, a very economical epic ride and a must do to tick off if you love motorcycling. (That guy we met on the Sorrento Ferry with the ape hangers on his Harley, don’t do it on that bike mate!!)
We intend to post a separate blog with Nullarbor ride tips since we got asked so many questions by locals over here with motorcycles approaching us with questions.
Thanks everyone for reading and following our blog on this very enjoyable ride, thanks again to Shayden Whipps for setting up the site for us, legend. Watch this space for our next post which will be a Taranaki adventure ride, lotsa gravel and tunnels and if we can get the video thing sorted and very professionally put together video clip of the ride utilising a drone (operated by Kieran Coulton) to get awesome aerial footage of said ride.
Ride Safe.
Keith and Mark