Right, as you all know Mucus had his bottom lip dragging on the ground in relation to the standard of accom I selected at Norseman.  He threatened that if I did not lift my game he was off home to his thousand thread count sheets and would throw his toys.

He survived the night but his lip was seriously dragging on the tarmac as we rode out of Norseman at 7.5 degrees.  We had only ridden 54 kilometers and he was wanting a latte and said he was feeling a bit Namby Pamby.  I told him he had just ridden the Nullarbor and was a hard bastard who shouldn’t be namby pamby so early in the morning so we headed off to Coolgardie, another hundy kms, coffeeless

Now Mucus recently sold down some old petrol bowsers to get cash for his 7 and 8th motor vehicles in his shed, so when he saw a private museum, gold coin donation, full of old signs and old bowsers, his bottom lip sprang back up and the coffee was not bought till after the wee tour through the shop.

The old guy that owned it gave us the history of all the old buildings in town, the title pic was the courthouse and the shire offices, down the road the old Police station and jail was outstanding, clearly the town was booming in the gold rush days.

Now given the “great Eastern Highway” is the main drag between Perth and Kalgoolie, there were trucks for Africa, the road was in good nick, wider, and with much wider berms, all the better for seeing dumb animals wanting to jump in front of the bike.

It was in as good a nick as the Hume highway over in NSW so travel was pretty easy and no drama’s.

One of the highlights today I must say, about 130 kms out of Norseman we came upon a road sign advising of a slight bend ahead and suggesting we slow from 110 to 90 kph to take the corner.

This is the most excitement we have had in 5 days, we have not seen a corner or had to lean more than 1 degree off the vertical since the Adelaide hills.  We ignored the 90 kph speed advisory sign and leaned the BMW’s into that gradual 90 kph sweeper several degrees off the vertical with the cruise control locked on 110 kph.  What a thrill to find a corner after so long. (That was the only one today sadly)  Just goes to show how easily pleased a motorcyclist can be.

Needless to say we made good time on the 476 kms to Merredin and I have had to promise Mucus the rooms in Fremantle will be more like what he has grown accustomed to. He has danced to continue the ride to its final destination tommorrow rather than fly home from the Merredin airport.

Despite the nasty heat yesterday, we learnt this was some tropical thing blowing down off the desert, thus the nasty head wind all day.

So today, there is cloud cover everywhere and a modest 18 degrees as we leave Madura pass.  Mucus had some “moderate braking” to avoid colliding with Skippy the bush kangaroo but not quick enough to get photographic evidence.

Three sections today, Madura to Cocklebiddy, cruisey as, only 92 kms to coffee.  Cocklebiddy to Belladonia another 180 kms for gas and then another 180 kms to Norseman.

Our favourite section was Belladonia to Norseman, awesome scenery and the temp did not get above 23 for the entire ride.  Dodged a bullet today, another awesome ride of 529 kms and again, all done by 1.30 pm due to yet another time zone change.!!!!  About 40 kms east of Norseman, again, some  moderate to harsh braking required when two Emu’s decided they might cross the road.  The nice birds looked both ways before crossing, saw me coming from their left, a car from their right, so took the “stay alive” option and ducked back in to the red gums.  Nice birds.

We both agreed today was an exceptional ride, clearly not a technical ride given the one straight was 146.6 kms, the longest straight in Aussie.

Tonight we are in the Railway Motel in Norseman, you need to see the pics on facebook.  Mucus reckons I have exceled at choosing accommodation. He was in fact speechless when we pulled up out the front.

The Nullarbor is a ride to remember, not to be missed.

Just our luck, heading off to do the Nullarbor and the locals tell us its going to be a scorcher for this time of year, could get up to 38 degrees!!!

Leave Ceduna at 0745 and hit the road, first section of 150 kms very nice, temp stays below 26, scenery not much different to yesterdays ride up the Flinders.

We pass a wee settlement called Yalata about 50 km east of The Nullarbor Roadhouse and things change.  We come up the rise and there’s a big sign saying we are at the eastern end of the Nullarbor National Park, the treeless plain.  Treeless all right, nothing to be seen anywhere.  Also a sign for the temp to jump up 10 degrees in about 10 minutes, next thing its 36 degrees and the wet vests are out.  It gets to 39 before the Roadhouse and we think it is uncomfortable.

Stop at The roadhouse for gas, coffee, cold drink, maybe 30 mins and hit the road again.  Jesus wept, the next 375 kms to Madura pass it hovered between 40.5 and 43.5 for the entire trip.  The power went off at Border Village in the shop and servo as the generator overheated.  Locals tell us a record high temp for April........ever............  just our luck.

Got to the Oasis At Madura Pass, quick dip in the pool, a beer and a meal, all good.  Accom is just OK but they have a captive audience here.

Despite the heat, a pannier half full of water kept the wet vests wet and we “re dunked” them every 60-70 kms.  Easy as, walk in the park riding at this temp.

Due to a time zone change, our 675 kms was out of the way by 2.00pm.  This is a great ride, recommended for all keen motorcyclists!!!

It is prudent to point out that we are at day 12 of a 16 day holiday.  If we had taken the normal route acros to Ceduna we would have passed through the town of Kimba and taken a pic of the sign that says we are half way across Australia.

As it was, yesterday on the way to Port Lincoln, the equivalent spot on the Lincoln Highway was Arno Bay, geographically half way across Aussie.  And here were we thinking we were almost there.

The Highway from Port Lincoln to Ceduna is called the Flinders, this is an absolutely awesome peaceful ride.  Want some Trivia?  Back home in NZ, Sheok’s are a shelter belt tree, I had not seen one at all on our journey thus far in Aussie.  So off we go up the Flinders highway to Ceduna, Sheoaks grow like a weed, so like a weed they are as common as manuka back home.  More Sheoaks than gum trees.  Now everyone will be intrigued by this useless trivia, but what else can I say about this Highway.

The first 120 km out of Port Lincoln was awesome local bush (and Sheoaks) the second half of the trip was like a desert, rocks, barren, just nothing there.

Of note was the village ( I use this term loosely, there was only a church) the village of Colton, SA.

COLTON SA is the first town I have noted segregation by religion after death?  Yes, The “Colton catholic Cemetery” was opposite the church and a couple of discreet kms down the road and away from the sight of the almighty and the church was the plain old “Colton Cemetery” for all the non Catholics.

More Trivia, you just can’t get enough of it.  The title pic today is typical of the Flinders in the first 120 kms out of Port Lincoln.

More Trivia?  Not much to do on this road, lets count the cars?  Yes, the vehicular population on the entire journey worked out to one vehicle every 31.25 kilometers.  ( Don’t break down out here)

Arrived at Ceduna, what a great little coastal Town, very tidy, massive pier, awesome sunset view from the bar at the Ceduna Waterfront.

We are staying at the East West Motel, you don’t have to follow my lead, if you come through here, book in at the Ceduna Waterfront Hotel,  Nice Balcony rooms overlooking the sea, restaurant, bar, parking.  Stay there. The Nullarbor tommorrow

Another great days riding, we left Port Augusta at 15.5 degrees, pretty much the standard for the last week or so, but no joking, less then 2 kms down the road it was 24 degrees???? The ride from Port Augusta to Whyalla is red dirt country, you would think you were riding in Utah, very similar countryside and outlook, yet south of Whyalla the countryside changes again. The title pic today is a typical sight on the road, this pic is about 75 km south of Whyalla going down the Lincoln Highway, you get over the brow in the distance and the view is the same. Relaxing riding, not a cloud in the sky 360 degrees, awesome weather.

South of Whyalla it is initially low scrub everywhere like heather, a low weed, but after a while it turns to quite nice native Aussie bush but nothing higher than say 6m. (Munyaroo Conservation park)

South of Cowell, back in to dry land ranches, dunno how they make a living, few scattered merino’s here and there, very dry and barren, maybe cropping in the winter??

Temperature all over the place today, it got up to 31 just before Cowell, but then you hit Cowell on the sea and it dropped back to a nice 24 degrees, move on 2-3 kms inland again south of Cowell and up to 29 degrees, hottest was inland just before Tumby Bay at 32.5 degrees but as we rolled into Port Lincoln back to a nice 26.  You only need to  move a couple kms from the coast and not see the ocean and the temperature soars.......not wet vest time yet though.!!!

This accom at Port Lincoln is called Bay 10, outstanding value for money and a 5 min walk from the center of town, no one here, ring reception on arrival and talk to the lady on a cell phone.  Gives you the safe combination for the keys and leaves you too it. Rooms are the best we have had yet.  Anyone traveling by bike or car to Port Lincoln, check out Bay 10 for value for money and good quality fittings and rooms, not to mention view.

Great relaxing ride, open road riding, 365 kms and here by lunch time, easy as. More pics of Port Lincoln on facebook, nice spot.

Handy az last night, hadn’t realized the accommodation in North Adelaide was right next to the North Adelaide “High Street” so round the corner for a beer and a curry.

This morning, the Main North Road starts about 100m from the Comfort Inn and we stayed on the same road for the 300 Km’s to Port Augusta.

Fair to say, having ridden this road before, there is nothing to see and you cover the ground quick with the cruise control on 110 kph.  Getting gas somewhere, as an excuse to get off the bike, a local told us that the wee Hamlet of Lochiel was the major tourist attraction in these parts with a wind farm on your left and the famous pink salt lake on your right.  Lochiel is just a wee bit smaller than Tariki.  They suggested we might at least like to slow down and look as we rode past their lake, famous in these parts.  We went one better and stopped and took a pic out of respect, Not pink today, just white. Maybe its pink if the sun sets in the right place?  Reminds me of riding through Death Valley, Nevada.................... sorry Lochiel, a facts a fact!

Stopped for a drink at Port Pirie , following the “City Center” signs.  Optimistic calling it a city but a tidy wee town anyway.

Arriving in Port Augusta, also a tidy looking place with the Comfort Inn across the 2nd bridge in West Port Augusta right by the sea.  Nice spot.

It was a cool 15 degrees heading north out of Adelaide all the way to the first coffee stop.  25 degrees by the time we hit Port Augusta at midday.  Relaxing open ride riding, barely 1 degree off the vertical for the most severe sweepers today.

Much of the same sort of scenery tomorrow heading down to Port Lincoln, but might have a nice sea breeze as on the coast.

OK, point taken, my selection of accommodation at Murray Bridge may not have been the sharpest decision I have ever made, nuff said.

By the way, Mark Batty is celebrating another year closer to the pension today the 5th of April, 50 something he tells me.

Out of Murray Bridge bright and early, about the same time as the road gang we learnt all the Aussie translations off last night........and into Hahndorf, slutty wee town, a bit of Arrowtown going on there, Autumn colors hitting all the deciduous trees, got there just as a cafe opened, breakfast and coffee.

The ride in the Adelaide Hills we have agreed is the top days ride in Oz to date, beats the Snowy Mountains and we won’t even talk about the GOR, don’t make me remember that ride.

If you are anywhere near SA, don’t bypass Adelaide without a look around the Hills, what an awesome part of the world, I could live there.

Tourists in a car might try the more popular routes, but if you are riding a motorcycle, have a couple hours to spare and want the roads less travelled, have a look at the following route.  You won’t regret it, even just for the gorgeous old stone homes and shops. Beautiful.

This ride starts in Hahndorf, take the B34 and the 58 to Birdwood, pop into the Main Street in Birdwood and have a look at the National Motor Museum, an absolute must see.

I can’t leave Birdwood without referencing a shop called “Bills Bits and Bikes” (www.billsbitsandbikes.com) and he has a facebook page.  This shop is like a pilgrimage for motorcycle fans.  he is a bike wrecker, he has 5 acres, he has bikes and bits for Africa.  If you need a part and can’t find it in NZ, get hold of this guy. What a fantastic shop to visit.

Birdwood is a peaceful restful wee town, ride along to Gumeracha, more of the same, cute as.

In Gumeracha take the Kenton valley Road, this winds and sweeps through to Lobethal, take a right and follow your nose thru Lenswood and Ashton to the U corner at Norton Summit.  On this corner, take a right onto Norton Summit Road.  Outstanding views over distant Adelaide as you wind your way around the summit of the Hills.  Norton Summit drops you into Adelaide on Magill. The pic of the Birthday Boy is taken about half way down Norton Summit Road approaching the city

At the first set of lights go right on St Bernard and follow your nose until you see a sign for the B31/Gorge Road.  Turn right and head up Gorge Road, a treat for all motorcyclists and right on the edge of Adelaide.  Awesome.

Follow this to Chain of Ponds then come back into Adelaide on the B10 NE Road.  Just north of tee tree gully is the Inglewood Inn, a fine establishment to dine, nice views over the bush.

This is an awesome days riding of only about 150 kms.  If you have more time, maybe a full day, throw in the Wine Region loop so Birdwood/Angaston/Lyndoch/Williamstown/Chain of Ponds.

The loop we rode has no buses, no tourists in fact next to no cars so is a pleasure to ride.  We saw more budding Adelaide cyclists up there than motorists, a haven for cycling I would suggest.  

South Australia is my favorite State for scenery and riding so far, has a real relaxing laid back vibe to it.  Lucky you’s That live here I say.

Staying in North Adelaide Comfort Inn, right by the Cafe strip. Off across some wheat field country tommorrow heading for Port Augusta.

Portland was a tidy wee town, the Comfort Inn sat down on the waterfront overlooking the massive port, huge ships anchored off shore, looks to be lotsa timber going out of this place.

Massive breakfast and off we go taking what is described as the “scenic route” to Mt Gambier.  Good ride, next to no  traffic, farmland and forestry, very pleasant ride for a motorcycle.

At Mt Gambier we elected to take the Riddock Hiway rather than the coast, good choice, still lotsa forestry down low, all pine now, not eucalyptus, so very similar to riding up on the volcanic plateau back home.

At Penola, in fact all the way from Penola to Naracoorte you could be in Marlborough, vineyards both sides of the road otherwise dry land farming, then more vineyards between Naracoorte and Keith.  Anyone on a motorcycle heading this way, try the Riddock Highway instead of the coast, a nice ride.

Whistled through Willalooka in a flash, smaller than Whanga.............Coulton couzies, this is where Lizzy Cop managed the tavern couple years back. Nice restful part of the world out there.

Spot of lunch at Keith, a very laid back wee Souta straya town where the Riddock Hiway meets the Duke Hiway, again a nice ride, bright and sunny, 25 degrees as we head for Tailem Bend and Murray Bridge to our accommodation.  485 kilometers today and we were here by 2.00pm, very relaxing and stress free ride after the shambles yesterday on the Great Ocean Road.

(110 kph speed limit in SA helps of course)

Bistro at the local in Murray Bridge and we are ready to kick off early tommorrow into Hahndorf for breakfast to kick off the circuit through the Adelaide Hills.

Adelaide CBD tommorrow night

Good days riding.

Today’s blog will be of interest to our Triumph riding compadres back in the Naki in so far as bike maintenance and resale stuff is concerned..............read on..............

Slow start to the day today, bit of housekeeping to be done. Cast your mind back to the start of the trip, you will recall we hired two bikes, me on a BMW R1200GS and Mark on a Triumph Explorer, (see pic above).  Well, as you can imagine, the GS has been super reliable and performed admirably.......as expected.

Not so with Marks Triumph Explorer (see picture again now if you like), we have had a few isssssues with it leaking oil. Concerned about oil on the tires, we let Mr Google help us and tracked down a mechanic in Geelong, who services Bernina sewing machines, Poulan Chainsaws and of course, Triumph Motorcycles.

We went to see him first thing today which held up the start to the great Ocean Road.  It was a simple thing, to do with a gasket.  Yep, you guessed it, the price of the gasket was more then the bike was worth so the explorer was written off and he gave Mark a nice grey GS to match the red one I have been riding.  We rode off happy as, but shed a tear to have to say goodbye to the trusty :) Triumph, Oh dear, how sad.

Moving on to the famed “Great Ocean Road”  I rode this with Marie 10 years ago and it was an enjoyable ride back then.

You will be glued to this blog I know, so you will have it etched in your memory that on Day four, we said the Alpine Way in NSW was one of the best rides we have ever done.

Well today , we both agree, was one of the worst rides we have ever done.  The “Great Ocean Road” is the most overrated piece of Tarmac on the Australian continent, a hideous days ride that we would not recommend to any self respecting rider.

Surprised?

Aussie has marketed the Great Ocean Road to death, it is over commercialized, the infrastructure cannot cope with the number of tourists, if you ride a bike, stay away from this shitfight.

The speed limit has been reduced to 80 kph. What a joke, between Torquay and Lorne, no way can you get about 50 kph due to the traffic volume.

The next bit, Lorne to Apollo Bay is the neat bit around the cliffs and close to the sea.  Scenic yes, a nice ride, NO.  Why?  Road works and stop go lollipop men every 2-3 km  mean you have plenty of time to admire the scenery as you are stationery for so long.  Turn the bike off at the road works , you wait so long it will blow up if you idle.

OK, you ask me, what about the next bit with some nice inland bush twisty bits from Apollo Bay to Port Campbell.

We were warned by the mechanic at Geelong to be careful on the great ocean road, watch out for sea fog, dry sand causing a loss of traction on the corners, animals, wet slippery roads.  We encountered none of these, the biggest danger on this road and the single most frustrating thing that made this the most hideous ride I have done in 10 years was ( dare I say it) tourists who should not have been given the keys to a rental car.  The two main offenders today were identical to similar issues we have struck in NZ, they are easily recognized, they hail from a very large country, much larger than Aussie and to the north and east of Aussie.  The rental car companies give them a car in exchange for cash as they have a license, sadly though, they have likely never driven outside Shanghai so never driven in the country.

One such B.**%@#*..d today could clearly not read English as the signs that said “ slow drivers use turnout lanes” meant nothing to this dickhead who drove for literally miles, totally ignoring turnout lanes, doing 50 kph in an 80 kph zone, had no less than 30 cars, tour buses, caravans, motorhomes, and two motorcycles behind him and had no bloody idea what a mirror was for.

It made Apollo bay to Fort Campbell a complete nightmare ride.  When I eventually managed to overtake this Dufus in a  not particularly safe manner, I had enough time to sit beside his drivers window and at the top of my voice and emphasized with very clear sign language, explain the following to him in less than  15 very clear words, many of which were adjectives:

1. What I thought of his character and personality.

2. My opinion as to his driving skills and

3. How soon I thought he should remove himself and his car from the road.

Total loonatic that should not be allowed on Aussie roads, and he was the second such person, hailing from the same country that drove in a similar fashion on that road today.

Long story short, Torquay to the twelve apostles, the worst ride in the world, DO NOT go there on a motorcycle, take the Princes highway and do the coastal rides in NZ if that is your thing.  The Great Ocean Road is dead to me, I will never return there for any reason.

Right, you may have picked up I disliked that ride, it was an immense relief to get past the twelve apostles toward Warnambool and Portland, tourists in general, Chinese tourists in rental cars who got their license in a Chinese takeaway packets and tour buses all disappeared and the ride almost turned to normality.

A day we would rather forget to be fair. Looking forward to South Australia now, I am done with Victoria after today.

Have you ever seen the movie “Vacancy” ?, No? Google it.......A strange  thing to put in a blog you may ask yourself but No, a prudent question indeed.

Last night we pulled in to an accommodation provider in Sale, it appeared deserted, it was huge, like you would imagine the KGB HQ might look like in Moscow, maybe an abandoned French Chateau, you know the style.

We spoke to the reception person, OMG, say no more.  It was mentioned we had large rooms each that sleep multiple persons, we advised a smaller room would do, but were promptly told there were no vacancies. ??????

There was not another soul there, the place must sleep 200. No vehicles anywhere.

Upon inspecting the room, I found my bathroom floor sopping wet and had to get some extra towels to dry it.  I thought it strange there was tomato sauce down the central plug in the floor, weird as eh?.............On reflection it may not have been tomato sauce?  Not that I’m saying it was arterial blood, but my imagination was casting my mind back to the movie, you know what I am saying.

The chef had “done a runner” we were told, so the restaurant was closed.  Did he leave voluntarily or was he buried out the back, can’;t answer that.  The place had a very strange vibe.

We were directed to the Greyhound club in Sale for a meal.  We went there and had Chicken Parmigiana, as you do when trying to blend in with the locals.  There was even Greyhound racing.

Back to the set of “Vacancy 4” locked our rooms securely so as not to become actors or victims, the set was perfect.  We survived the night and there were still no other cars anywhere to be seen in the morning.  No vacancies in other rooms we were told, but we were the only two guests.

I prefer to leave the name of the premises a secret, it would be fiscally irresponsible of me to give them a heads up they could make a fortune staging mystery murder evenings...............I say stage not do..............

Sorry, again I digress from the motorcycle trip, today we took the Princes Highway from Sale to Sorrento on the Mornington peninsula and got a ferry across to Geelong.  A cunning plan to beat the traffic heading back into Melbourne on the afternoon of Easter Monday.

Let us cover off the ride from Sale to Geelong.  Nothing to say I guess, it will never feature in the top 100 rides in Oz that’s for sure.

Booked in at the Quality Hotel in Geelong, a very nice establishment in a top spot and looking to hit the Great Ocean Road in the morning.